The V8 Owners Forum -

A turbo will amplify the cams characteristics imo. So, a fast road cam will perform like the clappers whereas a mild cam will pull like a train. All assuming the turbo's are correct for the application

I spent years looking for a 'drop in' piston and there isn't one imo. The nearest ones are chevy 305 or pinto 96mm. Both are cheap if you look in the right places but you'll need rod, bore or crank mods to use them. So, you may as well buy custom forgings and be done with it. Some pinto pistons come...

Coops, I've just seen this thread. You don't need to spend huge amounts of money on a bottom end if you keep the revs sensible. Big power (forced induction) can be had from any low compression build if it's got forged pistons and a decent ring pack. The stock 4.0/4.6 crank is perfectly up to the job...

Pah, tiz simple. Stick a single turbo onto one exhaust header and also feed into it with the other exhaust bank. Retain the rest of the exhaust system that you have. You don't need intercooling for 5 psi. You will need an oil feed to the turbo and oil drain to the sump. Oh and a rising rate fuel pre...

I cast h/d stroker cranks which will reach 5.5 with a 96mm bore. I can stroke them up or down and use a number of con-rod variants. The drawback is that it's not cost effective getting them machined as single items and machining can take eons to get done. I used to use a 2" chevy pin size, chevy rod...

Why is it silly? They stick turbo's on buses and dusbin lorries You wanted torque? You have a mappable ecu so a 5psi blown set up would be a doddle.

A tame cam and a single turbo will give you significant gains in torque.

If you wet the plugs it'll never start. I'd certainly leave the boss in place if planning to use a carb. With efi set up properly I'd be happy to remove the boss.

I've got a Thunderbird 8.8 for my Tr8. It cost £80 from the US and has disc brakes and wheel sensors. It's also a similar width to my existing axle. They're not expensive to buy just expensive to ship.

I'm pretty sure I've got some leftover sodium valves and springs for buick heads. Obviously they weren't made for the buick but I bought them when I was using buick heads on a 5.4 which I sold. The valves are heavier then the buick items which is why I also sourced the springs and collets etc.

At the start of the Thor programme they cast 4.5 cranks and 4.5 plenums with 4.5 cast in the lid. I stumbled across several on my travels

They're really good imo. They have a nice light streetable pedal action because they don't need high poundage springs due to the increased plate friction area. I used one on my TT 4.5 and 5.0 rv8's many years ago and never had any issues. They're expensive though. I imported mine direct although it ...

If it's not been running a sealed coolant system with antifreeze won't the coolant passages be rusted to buggery?

Omega did cast and forged pistons so bare that in mind. Rockers are easy to check, lift a valve cover. Cranks were usually cross drilled by JE if using an iceberg crank casting. I'd expect blue rocker covers. Can you take the sump off and look at the pistons from underneath to see if forged or cast....

Sounds like oil surge to me. The oils going sideways. Do you get a puff of smoke as if it's passing the piston rings? Easy fix, weld a horizontal baffle in the sump so the oil stays underneath.