The V8 Owners Forum -

Hey, I've got a very good pipe flaring tool from Snap On, although I can't find it at all on their site or Google now. It performs perfectly on copper pipe although I am using kunifer now, and it's hit and miss as to whether I get a good flare or not. I've had loads of practice, and there is no rhyme or reason that I can tell to why it is better some times.

Question is- unless anyone has any advice how to get a perfect flare every time (I can on copper so a bit lost), is it worth me annealing the ends once I have flared them to soften them up so they will definitely seal better when nipped up? I imagine it can be harder to get kunifer to seal as well as copper if the ends are not 100% perfect.

- here's the type of tool it is-

Post a photo of the bad flare.

With that tool, you should be able to make perfect flares on copper, kunifer or steel with ease every single time.

Often you need to expose more of the bare pipe through the die than the instructions suggest, bit it can depend. But I'm only talking a very small amount more.

And make sure you're doing the Op1 and Op2 in the correct sequence if doing a double flare.

Tom
I have one almost identical to that and never have a problem.
Is the kunifer pipe old?
You might have a bad coil of it.

P

It's brand new kunifer, brand new tool, op1 followed by op2.

I've tried every combination of pipe protruding from dies, from flush or less with the die to sticking out right up to the tooling in approx 0.5mm increments.

As mentioned, copper pipe is a treat, beautiful flares every time, but the kunifer crinkles on a couple of sides usually, it's like it doesn't want to stretch.

I'll get a pic or 2 of some dodgy ones when I get a chance.

It isnt stretching as such, more getting squashed.

When in the tool...it really doesnt have much choice..it's going to get squashed !

It's been many years since I used the old Sykes tool...but it really is THE tool for brake pipe flares.

Whether or not the copies of it are up the the same standard though, I couldnt say.

Even the hand held Flaremaster stuff is excellent in copper or kunifer.

Stevie I meant the sides of the pipe are stretched as it is forced to bulge outwards to make the donut shape of op1. The tool is well made, clamps never slip and dies look good but it's like the kunifer is not good for forming!

I found this...

i use a Sykes Pickavant tool but i've used them all and had good results, Just keep the tool tip lubricated

I'd agree with keeping things well oiled as the stress of working the metal will all weaken it a little and that could be contributing to the failures you are having.

Hi Tom
have you tried softening/aneeling the pipe, you may have a batch that has sat on the shelf for years and age hardened or it was never done properly at the factory, chop a length off give it a try, see what happens. As the others say oil it.
Best regards
Mike

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but concerning the "left on a shelf" comment, and as I'll need to do a load of brake pipes myself soon, where is the best place to buy kunifer pipe from? Any recommendations to make sure people don't end up with aged pipe, etc.?

I cant see old pipe being an issue. If it was on the car for 10 years and you needed to remake an end....well, it just works. So that old pipe is ok.

volospian wrote:Don't mean to hijack the thread, but concerning the "left on a shelf" comment, and as I'll need to do a load of brake pipes myself soon, where is the best place to buy kunifer pipe from? Any recommendations to make sure people don't end up with aged pipe, etc.?

Don't think such things 'work harden' simply by being on the shelf - or at least over a reasonable time scale. It's usually things like heating and cooling and vibration which cause this.

volospian wrote:Don't mean to hijack the thread, but concerning the "left on a shelf" comment, and as I'll need to do a load of brake pipes myself soon, where is the best place to buy kunifer pipe from? Any recommendations to make sure people don't end up with aged pipe, etc.?

I got mine from Car Builder Solutions
Ian

What you cutting the pipe to length with ? i found that some of the tube cutters left a burr on the inside and occasionally gave me problems. I now deburr the i.d. by hand burr like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-COUNTERS ... 589d0fa857

most rotary pipe cutters have a debur tool on the top ( at least my cheapy one does )

My flaring tool has a 45 degree cutter which put a slight chamfer on the outside of the tube before you put in into the flaring tool.
Naturally deburring the inside of the tube is important also to ensure a good flare.

Regards Denis