The engine stays right in place now
No flapping or wobbling around anymore for this engine.
It has made the launch a bit more agressive though. !!
I need to tweak the front suspension as she is lifting both wheels again
I let Jason run the car though a couple of times on Saturday to test the mods. He was happy.. He ran backed up 9.8 second passes one after the other
Re: MGB now with solid engine mounts
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 9:49 am
by ChrisJC
mgbv8 wrote:
I need to tweak the front suspension as she is lifting both wheels again
Daft question - if she is lifting both front wheels, how will adjusting the front suspension help?
Chris.
Re: MGB now with solid engine mounts
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:04 pm
by kiwicar
ChrisJC wrote:
mgbv8 wrote:
I need to tweak the front suspension as she is lifting both wheels again
Daft question - if she is lifting both front wheels, how will adjusting the front suspension help?
Chris.
I know your sort, you are going to start questioning the eficacy of homeopathic cures. . . aren't you come on admit it you are
Best regards
Mike
PS I think he needs a big fat anti roll bar on the back myself and maybe a sack of spuds on the left front wing.
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:35 pm
by ChrisJC
I think he needs a torque tube, then there should be no need for an anti-roll bar.
Agreed about the sack of spuds though!
Chris.
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:44 pm
by mgbv8
I did put a sack of spuds in the passenger seat. Well actually a mate of mine who weighs about 9 stone.
She still lifted the front left and she ran a flat 10 at 133mph. I then got told off for going over the 130mph limit for passenger rides
Re: MGB now with solid engine mounts
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:47 pm
by mgbv8
ChrisJC wrote:
mgbv8 wrote:
I need to tweak the front suspension as she is lifting both wheels again
Daft question - if she is lifting both front wheels, how will adjusting the front suspension help?
Chris.
Simples!!
Remove the rebound bump stops from the drivers side so I still have a bit of steering until she settles down
That should give me about 3" extra drop on the drivers side !!
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:28 am
by kiwicar
Hi
Do you think we should mention the "no pasangers over 130mph" rule with referance that 2 seat dragster the pod owns?? or do you think they may not react kindly to our observation!
Best regards
Mike
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 12:11 pm
by Blown v8
Enjoyed the slo-mo video
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 6:36 pm
by Darkspeed
Can you not tune the twist out by changing the position of the contact on the traction bars by making the one on the drivers side contact sooner ?
Do they then turn the axle housing into a big ARB?
Just found this on the HOT ROD site
It’s also very easy to tune a traction bar. Minimizing the air gap between the snubber and the spring allows the bar to “hit” the spring harder and quicker. For a street car, you want at least a ½-inch gap between the snubber and the spring to allow suspension travel. At the track, that gap can be changed with either a taller snubber, large washers under the snubber or angled wedge plates located between the traction bar and the rear axlehousing. Lakewood offers these plates in a variety of angles. If the snubber is too tall, it can easily be trimmed with a hacksaw to create the necessary air gap. It’s also possible to tune traction bars by changing air gaps side to side in order to create preload in the chassis.
Darkspeed wrote:Can you not tune the twist out by changing the position of the contact on the traction bars by making the one on the drivers side contact sooner ?
Do they then turn the axle housing into a big ARB?
Just found this on the HOT ROD site
It’s also very easy to tune a traction bar. Minimizing the air gap between the snubber and the spring allows the bar to “hit” the spring harder and quicker. For a street car, you want at least a ½-inch gap between the snubber and the spring to allow suspension travel. At the track, that gap can be changed with either a taller snubber, large washers under the snubber or angled wedge plates located between the traction bar and the rear axlehousing. Lakewood offers these plates in a variety of angles. If the snubber is too tall, it can easily be trimmed with a hacksaw to create the necessary air gap. It’s also possible to tune traction bars by changing air gaps side to side in order to create preload in the chassis.
I dont have an air gap anymore mate
But i will be looking at pre loading the drivers side with some spacers on the snubber rubber with some washers. Its so close to the end of season that I'm not bothered about doing much until Winter arrives as there are lots of jobs I need to do for next season.
One of them being more tweaks on the rear end.
As she sits at the moment the rear end is as tight as I can get it. So as soon as the power comes in the rear axle is pretty much locked down and its riding on the rear tyres. To be honest I'm happy that the car is running regular 9's now on the old cart spring setup while still being fairly stable off the line. I cant ask for much more than that can I ??
Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 9:38 am
by kiwicar
"I cant ask for much more than that can I ?? "
You could try bolting the roll cage into the car and see if that stiffens the chassis a bit I think at least an inch of that front wheel lift is down to the chassis twist, then you could add an anti roll bar at the back made out of a scaffold poll, you could pre load the suspension at the back a bit than and that would probably help a little.
Best regards
Mike
I think at least an inch of that front wheel lift is down to the chassis twist, then you could add an anti roll bar at the back made out of a scaffold poll, you could pre load the suspension at the back a bit than and that would probably help a little.