The V8 Owners Forum -

Ok, my vitesse tp refuses to start as fuel is not getting to engine? It started and ran 5-10 secs after we put brake cleaner in through afm, don't try this at home folks! , the problem was only the right hand bank was getting fuel so we suspected injectors on left hand bank were faulty? Anyway after replacing injectors with working ones, tried to start up and now no fuel getting to engine? All 8 plugs dry as a bone? Before this I took fuel rail off and fuel was present in rail and injector hoses as well, so it seems injectors aren't firing or if they are not at the right time? Your thoughts please folks. Cheers.

I'd start with the wiring... if one bank was working and suddenly isn't then it's somehow in the trigger/control system at fault.

Are all the connectors connected securely?
Are the earths good?
Does the pump run when you turn on the key? I seem to recall there is a link between engine oil pressure and the fuel pump running, is that switch connected?

The flapper engine is not like newer injection systems. The pump only starts when cranking. When the engine runs, the flap in the flapper unit moves and operates a switch which also controls the pump relay.

To test the pump etc, remove the trunking from flapper to airfilter. With the ignition on, move the flap with a finger. You should hear the pump run.



The system will only inject if it is getting a tach signal from the coil.

There are two injector banks driven off an injector driver each inside the ECU. They fire twice alternately per engine cycle.
Very unlikely several injectors would fail. So as was said, check the wiring first.

The injectors should all have +12v with the ignition on. The ECU grounds them to fire

Also note the two injection relays are specials. Other 5 pin ones used on the car are changeover types. The injection ones are plain on off with two outputs. Lost count on how many have fitted the wrong type. They are marked Bosch, unlike others on the car.

Thanks, pump works as I,'ve already done the test, ignition on push afm flap open and I can here pump running, I,'ll look at relay and wiring, though car was running before I had to swap engines.

Right - so if ok before and nothing changed, check all the connectors for damage etc when the engine was changed. Clean the connectors to both the AFM (flapper) and the resistor pack. And make sure the connection between the coil negative, resistor, and onto ECU (white/black wire) hasn't got pulled off.

Ok, fiddled with wiring, checked all connenctions, put vaseline on afm and power resistor connectors and she started up on the button! Very strange? Any ideas welcome? Thanks folks.

itsallrovernow wrote:Ok, fiddled with wiring, checked all connenctions, put vaseline on afm and power resistor connectors and she started up on the button! Very strange? Any ideas welcome? Thanks folks.

I'd venture that you simply made a suitable contact in a marginally serviceable connector. The Vaseline is a good thing to keep water out, but electrically irrelevant.

Pretty well all the connectors on the SD1 can give trouble as they're 30 years old and not weatherproof. Cleaning with a contact cleaner then packing with silicone grease is the recommended way. Trouble with Vaseline is is melts easily and may run out.

My guess would be the resistor pack connector. If you look at the schematic it has two power feeds - one to each bank - going though it.

Thanks for all the help, just bought a new power resistor from rimmers to be on the safe side! And will clean all connectors and pack them with silicone grease