The V8 Owners Forum -

The water spray is to gauge whether the cylinders are all running/firing correctly. The ones that are correct will obviously be hot and the water spray identifies it easier than sacrificing a finger per cylinder.....

Thanks for all your replies.

I am attempting to obtain another inlet manifold/carb set up to prove if it is carb related.

In the mean time am reading up on how to check the cam timing, and to me it looks like the engine has to be removed!

Have checked the TDC timing mark on the pulley, WRT to No.1 cylinder valves and it is correct, so surely the cam timing cannot be too far out?

Andy.

Have you checked TDC mark on the pulley is correct, i.e. it is actually at TDC when the pulley says so?

Chris.

Hi Chris;
I am sure that I have checked this, problem has been going on too long I may have forgotten!
I will check again when I can.
Thanks.

jenand40 wrote:Hi Chris;
I am sure that I have checked this, problem has been going on too long I may have forgotten!
I will check again when I can.
Thanks.

I think you should go back to square 1 and make a list of things to check and tick them off as you go on.
You can check that the cam is in the ballpark with tappet covers and distributor cover off by turning the engine and watching which valves are opening/closing relative to the cylinder identified by the dissy.

Still looking into this problem.
As suggested in a previous reply, I tried swopping the vacuum gauge and distributor vacuum take offs over on the carb. (Edelbrook 500)
Originally, looking from the front of the car, the distributor take off was on the left and the vacuum gauge take off on the right.
When swopped over I noticed that there was no vacuum indicated on the gauge!
Is this correct?

Always think it is good to give an update when you solve a problem especially when so many of you have contributed with help and advice, may also help anyone with a similar problem.

Over the winter I bit the bullet and decided to check the camshaft timing, as suggested in a previous reply. Camshaft was found to be 4* advanced!
Luckily the timing gears had several keyways available to correct timing.

Now runs a lot better, but still not happy with it. Further internet reading suggest setting the tappet preload with the lifters empty of oil (RPI) but I was sure I remembered soaking them in oil overnight. Removed the 0.050" shims from under the pedestals, checked for no piston/valve contact and fired her up. Now running even better, it is now drivable!

Took for MOT, which she passed albeit with a slightly high HC reading. Taxed her on 3 June and am now on the road!

Next step is to get her tuned on a rolling road.

Will provide a further update when tuned.

Once again thank to all who contributed to this problem.

After that amount of time with the problems you must be well chuffed, its nice to get these things sorted.

As stated in my last post, although on the road I am not happy with it and is a pig to drive, so it has just been left on the drive!
Had another go at it today as I bought a Holley 390CFM carb. and just fitted it. Thought that the Edelbrock 500CFM carb. originally fitted could have been too big.
Still far too rich with black slightly oily plugs. Thinking now I may have a problem with the rings or valve guide/seals. Did another compression check when hot and all around 170 +/- 5 psi.
Would these figures rule out the rings?
Any further suggestions? (I know what I would like to do with it).
Would it be worth removing the heads to check the valve guides and condition of bores? Bearing in mind that everything was new when fitted.

Surely being rich is just a function of the carburettor? It must be set up wrongly (wrong jets)

Chris.

As a starting point, the main jets in that Holley should be 51 .

I have now removed the engine and replaced it with a good engine from my Stag. This engine runs fine, using all the ancillaries from the original engine - fuel system, carb, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold & ignition system/distributor. So I am now sure that the problem is with the engine, but now I have it out of the car what investigations should I carry out?
Further internet reading has raised a possible cause, it has been suggested that the SD1 windage plate fitted in the sump may be retaining oil and causing this to be burnt off, hence rich mixture.
So what is the point of the SD1 windage tray, and could I remove it?
What other checks should I carry out, have replaced the cylinder heads with standard 10 bolt ones, the only thing I can think of is to look at the oil control rings (although compressions were okay).
Any further ideas would be appreciated.

The Range Rover didn't have the windage tray, but it did have a deeper sump. I believe it is to keep oil off the crankshaft when cornering hard otherwise it'll get whipped up into a froth.

To be fair, I think the pistons / rings / bores are the only thing left? Unless you have a holed piston.

Maybe worth a rebore and new pistons / rings.

Chris.

I cannot speak for the earlier RR V8s but the later engines certainly do have a windage tray in the sump - but I don't think that is all that relevant - like you have indicated there is something else going on.

Garry

As a matter of interest, how did you check the valve timing? And subsequently set it? It's not an easy thing to do accurately. Obviously with a standard cam and timing cogs you just set it to the marks. Not sure of the procedure if you have adjustable cogs and non standard cam.