The V8 Owners Forum -

minorv8 wrote:If you remove the spark plugs it it easier to crank and you will gain more revs. That sometimes helps too.

He left the plugs in and has fired it and ran it!


I dont have much experience with the crank driven pumps so do not know how well they self prime - I do now that CVH pumps can take a couple of thousand RPM as they will not prime on idle

I take it the JE front cover requires the long key and the crank gets modified - after using one of the suction pumps to make sure the pump is primed - suggestion above - and it does not pump I would remove the front pulley and check the key. I would also have a check to see if the pressure relief is stuck open - although with cold oil I would still expect pressure/ flow.

stevieturbo wrote:Are you 100% sure the filter is the same as the old one ?

Does it have a non return flap ?

If so, find one that doesnt and try it.

Another tip for troublesome engines, is get one of those vacuum pump thingies for removing fluids

eg this sort of thing ( or any vacuum pump really....well almost any lol )



and hook it up to an oil gallery of some sort, gauge takeoff, whatever. And pump like mad whilst cranking and the vacuum can help lift oil into the pump. I've used this with success on a few engines that otherwise just didnt want to lift the oil.

Hi Steve, Initially fitted HOF249 from Halfords (Allegedly LR ). Realised this was slightly different (taller) than the previous HOF202 (SD1) so swapped back to a 202 - no difference.

Like your idea with the pump. Will have a go...

He left the plugs in and has fired it and ran it!

I know he did. But if he still wants to use starter for further priming the engine will turn faster without plugs. Also, there is probably less of a chance of destroying the bearings.

And as Minor says, definitely remove the plugs until you have pressure.

Last engine I re-built had the old dizzy driven pump. I'd packed that with vaseline and made sure the filter was as full as possible - but never did anything about filling up the oil ways. And the oil pressure light went out very quickly when cranking.

Interestingly this site http://www.melling.com/International/Me ... /Technical
says:

Priming the Pump

Priming the pump properly before it is installed is very important. Although oil pumps are made with close tolerances, often they aren't self-priming. Unprimed, an oil pump could run for several seconds before picking up oil. Or worse, it might not pick up oil at all. This could lead early wear of the oil pump and the engine bearings.

Follow these suggestions when priming an oil pump:

Always dip the pump in a container of clean oil, turning the rotors or gears by hand until enough oil is released from the pump.
Use an electric drill in the engine to turn the pump in the direction of the distributor rotation, until the oil reaches the rocker arms.
If he pump is part of the front cover housing, it helps to coat the internal parts of the pump with a small amount of thick oil.
NEVER pack the oil pump full of grease or any other type of priming substance.
In addition to priming the pump, pressurising the entire engine with oil before initial startup will help lubricate the bearings and prevent a dry startup.

The BL workshop manual specifically says petroleum jelly. Ie Vaseline. Think they likely know best.

DaveEFI wrote:The BL workshop manual specifically says petroleum jelly. Ie Vaseline. Think they likely know best.

It's always worked for me. It disappears away to nothing in the oil, that's why it's used in assembling autoboxes as well.

Always used vaseline for priming rover pumps, and a few others. It works..simple as.

Add an extra 3 litres oil to the sump.
The level will now be higher that the pump
Plugs out and crank
Remove oil pressure sender and watch for oil coming outright bleed the air out that part of the system
Oil should circulate quickly as pump should be full

Once happy with oil pressure being there
Drain the additional oil back to correct levell
Re insert plugs
Start up and drive

Ian

thanks Ian. Will try this tonight.

Realised I had actually primed the JE pump slightly wrong. The lower port is oil out. John himself had advised to pump oil in the top 3/8 grub screw access port and then crank with the lower output hose loose to allow air out. I've got oil coming out there now but nothing round to my sensor/remote filter.

Will try the overfill method.....this looks a great plan.

minorv8 wrote:If you remove the spark plugs it it easier to crank and you will gain more revs. That sometimes helps too.

it will also take the load off the big ends from continual cranking with no OP

SimpleSimon wrote:

minorv8 wrote:If you remove the spark plugs it it easier to crank and you will gain more revs. That sometimes helps too.

it will also take the load off the big ends from continual cranking with no OP

Also reduces load on the starter motor. Quite easy to burn out if used for longer than normal.

If you. Haven't got one,I recommend one of the hi-torque mini starters,
They turn the engine over so much faster,and about a third of the weight

Ok, er...this is embarrassing...somehow someone had broken into the garage and swapped the pump outlet and inlet pipes over. Crafty thing to do. I won't bother informing the Police as I'm sure they've got plenty of other stuff to do that is far more important. ..cough..

Anyway, oil pressure restored. Happy...

Actually did all the above, removed plugs, overfilled etc Oil pressure light went off within seconds. I only noticed this as there was huge pressure on the wrong side of the oil filter. One way valve obviously working perfectly!

Thanks to all for the help, will keep a look out for the culprit but likely by now he has bu66ered off in shame...