The V8 Owners Forum -

Recently installed Land Rover replacement engine, just managed to stop the sump from leaking and now there is an oil leak from the rear of the engine!
No sign of oil at the top of the engine (rear of valley gasket) so believe that it is the rear crankshaft seal. The bl**dy car has not been on the road yet!!!
Are there any tests I can do to prove it is this seal?
Engine is cross-bolted, is it possible to change the rear seal without removing the crank?
Not able to remove the gearbox leaving the engine in position, so if it does prove to be the fault the engine/gearbox will have to come out together, again.
Am using Millers running in oil, which is very thin. Oil is dripping from the join between engine and bellhousing below the clutch slave cylinder. It is engine oil and not clutch fluid.

Do first check the crankcase breathers are correct and clear. These engines are designed to run with the crankcase under a slight vacuum. Any pressure can make them leak like a sieve.

There is a core plug and two other plugs on the oil galleys at the back of the engine, but I've never known them to leak.

I have had numerous rear crank oil seal leaks though. In my experience, it's not the seal itself, the leak is coming from somewhere where the rear main bearing cap seals against the block. There's those cruciform seals and you also have to have a smidge of sealant on the horizontal face before fitting the cap.

Also, note that the sump bolts that screw into the main bearing cap protrude into an area with oil, so it can run down the threads of the two bolts and drip off the bottom. So if it looks like it's on the sump bolt heads, it's worth trying to improve that first.

Chris.

Yes it is important to use sealant in the rear bearing cap where it bolts up to the block and to make sure the + seals are inserted correctly - I also use some sealer as well. Also need to check how the sump and its gasket seals up against the rear of the engine.

If ultimately you find it is the rear crank seal then the engine or the gearbox has to come out - or at least move the gearbox back and remove the clutch/flywheel. The rear crank seal is easily removed and replaced with everything in the engine in place - it just fits over the rear crank flywheel flange.

Garry

And to answer another OP question - yes you can change the seal without removing the crank. I find it easier to remove the bearing cap, or at least loosen it, which really means removing it to put new seals and sealant in place.

Chris.

ChrisJC wrote:And to answer another OP question - yes you can change the seal without removing the crank. I find it easier to remove the bearing cap, or at least loosen it, which really means removing it to put new seals and sealant in place.

Chris.

Those T seals vary with manufacturer (cheap ones shrink) Victor Reinz ones are quality but back up with a smear of RTV for sure but no sealer on the oil seal itself

Thanks for your replies.
DaveEFI - good point about the breather system, but it is dripping without the engine running!

Not able to remove the gearbox as there is not enough rearward movement to dis-engage the gearbox input shaft from the clutch assembly. So looks like the engine & gearbox has to come out again, sometime, bit annoying as i have an otherwise leak free engine, yes even the sump!

One more question - if the engine is out and i remove the sump and rear bearing cap to replace the seal and T seals, can i reuse the bolts?

SimpleSimon - where can i get Victor Reinz T seals from?

If it drips constantly with the engine stopped, the oil level is too high?

Obviously if oil is ejected while the engine is running, it will continue to drip for some time afterwards.

Main bearing cap bolts are reusable.

I would get underneath and check that it is definitely NOT coming down the two sump bolts that go into the main bearing cap before removing the engine.

Chris.